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“To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted.” – Bill Bryson


Many life experiences have led me to this place and time… join me as I spend a summer in a small village in Greece where generations of my family have lived and where I now hope to put down a few roots. Along my journey I will write letters to you to share my experiences and hopefully inspire you to create your own wherever you live or travel…
Dear Friend,

In most areas of Greece it is common to exhume graves after a period of time. In Arfara, each of my four Aunts have been buried in the cemetery behind the village church. After a period of three years, they are exhumed and their bones are placed in a wooden or metal box called an ossuary. These boxes are then stacked in a building adjacent to the cemetery also called an ossuary. People still visit their loved ones in this building and light a candle for them. My Aunts Irene and Theodora both died in 2005 and are in the village ossuary while my Aunts Martha and Voula, having passed more recently, are still in the cemetery. The ossuary is a bit ominous as you first enter...going from the bright Mediterranean sun to a cool dark chamber filled with boxes and faces of the dead. But, there is still a sense of peace and reverence there. Every evening loved ones make their way up the hill to light a candle and hand-picked wildflowers can be found tucked among the boxes in their memory.

Loved ones also visit the cemetery in the evening to light oil lamps and incense. Oil lamps are filled with olive oil and a new wick is added to a piece of cork allowing the oil to burn slowly. For the incense, a round disk of charcoal is lit and small bits of fragrant incense are added. The burning of incense is symbolic in that smoke only ever travels upward toward heaven. Many people visit their loved ones nightly and the white marble cemetery is dotted with black clothes of mourning as the sun begins to set.

XOXO,

Karen June


Ossuary

Ossuary

Irene

Theodora

Incense
(Container holds the black charcoal disks,
pink incense and the wicks for the oil lamp.)

Oil Lamp
(In the background you can see a photograph of my Aunt
Voula
along with an icon and the yellow paper below is a drawing
Kolya did for her)


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Letters From Arfara

  • About
      I am a wife, mother and artist living in the Boston area. My adventurous spirit is taking me to a small village in Greece this summer to experience my heritage, a closer bond with my son, creative freedom and anything else that comes my way. Friends and family will join me along the way and I hope you’ll join me too through this blog…
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